At the end of the twentieth century New Zealand (NZ) faced up to the fact that despite being one of the last places on earth to be settled by humans, it has one of the worst records of indigenous biodiversity loss.  The country’s long isolation and slow evolution resulted in its indigenous plants and animals being especially vulnerable to change, such as the arrival of settlers and the exotic species they brought with them.

Importantly, the country decided to act urgently, determinedly and in the long term to re-establish as much of that biodiversity as possible and ensure no further loss.

One of the key drivers for this ‘re-setting’ of national priorities and action came from a 1997 study that estimated that the total annual value provided by NZ’s indigenous biodiversity far exceeded the country’s GDP (Gross Domestic Product) –  230 billion NZ dollars versus 84 billion (1994 figures). The direct and indirect value of land and marine based ecosystems and services – agriculture, horticulture, timber, fishing – were included in this estimate, together with NZ’s ‘clean and green’ environment attracting investors, innovators as well as tourists to this unique and diverse land.

New Zealanders knew that to maintain and promote their country’s green image and save its internationally renowned unique biodiversity, fine words and written policies had to be converted into actions, implemented and supported over time – creating a new reality which would inevitably cause significant disruption along the way. Anchoring actions to the Maori holistic view, linking people and all living and non-living things via the union of Ranginui (the sky father) and Papatuanuku (the earth mother), has underpinned the country’s bicultural approach to biodiversity management.

So how is NZ doing? As an extremely lucky tourist, I was able to travel to this unique country in early 2020 and see for myself, fulfilling a lifetime’s ambition based on a love of horses, whilst also meeting up with my daughter, who was working in Western Australia. With four weeks at our disposal, both North and South Islands were on the  agenda, but hard choices had to be made every day.

We travelled from Auckland and Waehiki Island taking in the wineries, north to the Bay of Islands and Whangarei, historic site of the Waitangi Treaty of 1840 between the British Crown and Maori Chiefs, back down to Hamilton/Cambridge home of the thoroughbred, and Rotorua with its mineral pools and spa, and then on to a not-so-windy Wellington with its magnificent views.

Taking the ferry on a sunny and calm day, we crossed Cook Strait to Picton, traveling west to Abel Tasman (for kayaking, hiking and horse-riding) before embarking onto the east coast train to Kaikoura and a stopover for whale watching and hiking. Back on the train to Christchurch to witness on-going re-development, then south to the Otago Peninsula. A luxury stopover at Lanarch Castle and its stunning gardens, plus hikes with remarkable  flora, fauna and birdlife, was followed by a road trip via the Catlins to the Fjordlands with the magnificent Milford (with access just reopened due to landslides) and Doubtful Sounds, plus the magical glow-worm caves of Manapouri.

The biodiversity of land and marine life we encountered on our travels was simply amazing. Sealions – massive bulls and mums with young ones – pulled up on the sands of empty beaches following their morning fishing routine; stately albatross (from Royal to Buller’s) courting on land and flying solo across the oceans; curious nocturnal Kiwi in darkened surroundings taken from the wild as eggs to ensure their survival (and against intuition); large and small pods of acrobatic dusky and common dolphins; agile seals sunning themselves on cliffs and rocks; sperm whale encounter watching that huge tail ‘dive, dive’; falling in love with the songs and sights of the wattled Tui, Bellbird, Saddleback, Kaka and friend of the hiker, the Fantail; wondering at the flightless Takahe and Pukeko; creeping up on the rare yellow-eyed penguin and counting in to shore at dusk the Little Blue Penguins – plus enjoying the mammal and predator free environments of many islands and the eco-sanctuary that is Zealandia, home to the smallest surviving dinosaur, the Tuatara.

Travelling onto Queenstown just as the impact of Covid-19 was beginning to affect daily life in NZ, we made a road trip along Lake Wakatipu to the beautiful Glenorchy, where booked horse-riding had been cancelled, practising social distancing as we had throughout the trip due to low numbers of people, coupled with the country’s vast and varied landscapes.

Flights changed, courtesy of Air New Zealand, to expedite my return to UK and Hannah’s to WA and her flying doctor duties, our return across to Christchurch Airport took in expansive and dramatic landscapes via Lindis Pass, Twizel, Lake Pukaki and Burkes Pass.

In common throughout our trip were the concurrent themes of (i) eco-tourism, respecting and maintaining the environment through which we were passing from use of resources to waste management, and (ii) celebrating the history and culture of each area and those who live and work there. These two themes were accompanied by the evidence of significant change to re-establish indigent biodiversity we witnessed at every turn not only in terms of flora, fauna, bird and marine life but also in forestry. Native forests, cut down for farmland and fast-growing woodland to serve the construction and allied industries, are being re-established as stands of pine come to maturity and licenses are not renewed. Non-native species are poisoned creating scars on the landscape for now, visible to all travellers by water and land – but an investment for the future beyond price.

The progress the country has made in its ambition to be Predator Free by 2050, to ensure the survival of its native species, through collaboration, combined action and central funding is remarkable, with 110 of its islands already pest free. Pest control techniques on the mainland too have become much more effective, with possums, for example, so well controlled that NZ farmers are very close to being free from Bovine Tb.

NZ acted fast and comprehensively to the threat of Covid-19 – just as it has with its biodiversity plans – implementing Level 4 within days, requisitioning hotels and apartment blocks to quarantine returning and departing travellers. As I write this, the country is winning the battle against the virus – and from what I and my daughter experienced through placing the Maori long-term concept of ‘kaitiakitanga’ (guardianship) centre stage, NZ is also beginning to win its battle to re-establish its unique biodiversity.

I hope to go back some day and witness further progress as well as wonder once again at this country’s staggeringly beautiful natural biodiversity and landscapes.

Further reading:
https://www.doc.govt.nz/nature/biodiversity/nz-biodiversity-strategy-and-action-plan/
Pounamu Pounamu (1972) by Witi Ihimaera (short stories)
The Penguin History of New Zealand (2003) by Michael King

All photos © Rhonda Smith